Clinton and I got up really early on Saturday morning, probably around 4 a.m., packed up a few last minute things, and headed outside to find a cab to take us to the bus terminal. Raja had told us that we’d be able to find a cab, but when we walked out of Kepa and didn’t find any taxis at the street corner where they usually wait, we began to worry a bit. We decided to walk up Bishops Rd. towards the internet café in hopes of finding a cab there. It was still dark out and the roads were completely empty – no people and no cars – so I was definitely on my guard. After walking for a few minutes, we saw a car approaching. The driver honked his horn as he passed (the typical means of a taxi asking if you want a ride), so we stopped, turned around, and waved for him to come pick us up. Raja had warned us that we’d probably get overcharged a great deal, as prices tended to go up at night when few taxis were in operation. At first, the 40,000 kwacha seemed absurd but we both realized that we didn’t have another feasible alternative, as we weren’t sure when another cab would arrive and even then, if they’d be able to offer us a better deal.
We told the cab driver that we were headed to the central bus station. He seemed a bit confused even when we had told him it was near a 2cas (this was the landmark that Raja had mentioned to us). After a while he just said, “Oh, no problem,” as these cab drivers tend to say even when they don’t know where they’re going. Yet, somehow, they always manage to get us where we need to go, and so did this driver. He stopped by a gas station to ask for directions (I was expecting something like this happen) and it even worked out for the better since Clinton could use the ATM there. After we took off again, we started driving on a lot of local roads, which worried me a bit (the dark didn’t help either). I kept hoping that the next road we drove on would be a main one and that this guy wasn’t taking us into the middle of nowhere to rob us. Fortunately, it all turned out well in the end. We got to the bus station and the driver even took us over to buy tickets. Of course, once we had gotten the tickets and he led us over to the bus we would be taking, he asked for some monetary compensation for his services. We gave him 10,000 kwacha, which really didn’t seem like a whole lot extra (considering how much we paid him for the cab ride itself), and after all, he did get us there safe and sound.
The cab driver had originally told us to just go sit on the bus once we had our tickets, but one look at the completely dark and seemingly empty bus quickly changed our minds. We waited outside for a little while. It was still early in the morning (around 5 a.m.) so it was a bit cold and we were looking for a good excuse to get on the bus. When we saw another passenger get on, we took this as our cue to follow. When we got in, we found the first three seats of the second row occupied by someone sleeping. We decided that it was probably the driver who was just taking a nap before the ride. Clinton tried to sit a row or two back and actually ended up sitting on another person who had also been sleeping. Now, we weren’t really sure what to think. But, we didn’t ask any questions, and instead just sat up front talking to pass the time. After some time passed, the first person we had found got up, turned on the bus lights and started cleaning up (we later learned that the second person was just another passenger). People began trickling onto the bus very slowly at first, which surprised us since Raja had told us to be at the bus station promptly at 5 a.m. since buses left at 5:30, 6, and 6:30. I thought that perhaps we weren’t leaving because the bus wasn’t full. This concept might seem strange to someone who is used to buses running on schedule (as is typical in the states), but when I had been in Kenya this pastsummer, transportation often left when there were enough people to leave. In either case, Clinton and I just waited (perhaps we also didn’t want to push our luck any further).
We didn’t learn until we had gotten back from the trip that we had simply bought a ticket for a different bus company (Zoom Trailways) which actually left at 8 a.m. This bus left a bit past 8 (when the entire bus was close to full) so we had to wait over 3 hours. I think in the end, we were just really glad to leave (and perhaps all that waiting made us appreciate leaving all the more). Whatever the case may have been, we were soon on the road.
I slept for pretty much the entire 6 or so hour ride there, while Clinton was mostly reading. The bus made several stops in towns on the way to Livingstone to pick up and drop off passengers and one official rest stop in the middle for food. The rest stop wasn’t very good. The “cuisine” was fast food, primarily deep-fried chicken, but food was food (We hadn’t eaten anything that morning so we weren’t going to be picky) and it was cheap (so even better).
When we arrived in Livingstone, it was already past 2 p.m. so we decided to quickly check into Ngolide Lodge and head off to Victoria Falls before it got dark. Ngolide Lodge was rather nice (although it didn’t have a restaurant), but really expensive (264,000K for our double).
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls made the entire trip well worth it. The place is absolutely beautiful and only costs $10 (but we only had kwacha so we had to pay a higher fee of around 90,000K). When I asked the guy who sold us the ticket if it would be safe to take pictures with my camera, he said something along the lines of, “Oh, no problem. There’s only little sprays of water here and there.” Little did we know that by sprays he meant gushing downpours and heavy winds. Needless to say, we got completely soaked, although that only made the experience more memorable. After all, we not only saw, but also felt and tasted the Falls. We took a lot of pictures (it’s amazing to think they were all of just water) and even one or two with the locals, before heading out. We decided to check out the craft stores set up right outside the entrance to the Falls before leaving for dinner, but as soon as we heard the prices, we realized that it wasn’t even worth trying to bargain with the vendors.
One of the reception clerks from our lodge had recommended Ocean Basket for dinner, but when we asked the cab driver about the place, he told us that there wasn’t anything on the menu under 70,000K. He said that the Zig Zag restaurant, in the other direction from our lodge, was a less expensive option with relatively good food. When we arrived at Zig Zag, it was relatively early in the evening, around 5 p.m. so the restaurant was still on its break (we seem to have a knack for coming to dinner at these times) and only the bar was open. Fortunately, a person who seemed to be the manager told us that he couldn’t just not have us eat (or in reality, he didn’t want to lose the potential business) so he gave us menus and told us to place orders as usual. They served breakfast all day so I decided to get a granola and yogurt (freshly made) parfait, Clinton got a burger for himself, and we got a plate of nachos to share, along with two smoothies for drinks. I have to say that the breakfast food was extremely good. It had raisins, nuts, granola, honey, coconut, and so much more. The smoothie tasted more like a milk shake but it was still pretty good.
Before leaving, we decided to ask the waiters how early they were open for breakfast (our bus was at 8 a.m. so we were hoping to be able to grab a bite to eat or take some food to go so we wouldn’t be starving again). The restaurant would open at 7 a.m. so we set up an arrangement where we would pre-order breakfast now and pick it up to go tomorrow morning at 7:30 a.m. We also asked them if there was some place where we could buy fresh fruit, like mangoes. The waiter told us he could pick mangoes for us (there were several trees right outside of the restaurant) and asked how many we wanted. We said 2 or 3 (they would all be for me since Clinton wasn’t the biggest mango fan, although he did quote SNL a few times). The cook and two of the waiters then set out picking mangoes for me. We offered to pay them but they wouldn’t accept any money.
After dinner, we headed back to the apartment. I fell asleep almost immediately (I think I’ve spent most of my time in Zambia sleeping). The next morning, we stopped at Zig Zag to pick up breakfast and then went back to the Zoom Trailways bus top. The bus left soon after 8 a.m. and after another long trip, we were back at Kepa. We spent the rest of the night preparing for Monday’s presentations and relating the weekend’s stories to our housemates.